"My Personal Bonding Advice"


It is possible for two bunnies to get on well with each other right from the start. However, for most of us that's not the case, and bonding or introducing rabbits to each other, is a very stressful thing. Bonding two bunnies of the same sex is even more difficult. However, I believe that if you give them the time that they need to adjust to each other, it is entirely possible for them to end up a happy couple. Following is the method that I used to make friends of my two girls.

I recommend housing your rabbits' cages side by side (slight gap between)for a few weeks before you begin the bonding process. This allows them to become familiar with each others' personal scent, and movements. If they treat each other well enough through their cages (no biting), then it's time to start with the face to face introductions. Begin each bonding session with a 15-20 min car ride. Both of my girls hated this... especially Lego, as she is the milder of the two. I didn't have anyone to help, so I made up an area with high cardboard sides on the front seat of my car so they would be right next to me while I was driving. Take seperate carriers to the car... start car... put them one at a time in the car (which is already on). I found that they would not fight in a car that was already running. Once you've driven them around (they will usually snuggle with each other for support and comfort during the ride), then put them in seperate carriers and take inside to a neutral area/pen. This has to be an area that neither bunny has seen before, and so neither can claim it as their territory. Let them out of carriers and watch them closely to see how they react to each other. When they first come in after a car ride, they'll usually flop over, etc. to get over the scary situation they were just in. After a while they will calm down and begin to move about. This is when trouble may start brewing. Especially if one tries to command dominance over the other. You need to watch for agressive behaviours... growling, ears back, tense posture, circling, etc. (you might find that referring to the "Language of Lagomorphs" may help you to recognize all the signs). As long as they are not showing agressive signs then leave them be, but watch closely. If they start to tussle, seperate immediately into seperate carriers, and go for another car ride. When you get back let them out of their carriers and then hold them side by side and pet and talk to them calmingly so that they may calm down. This also allows them to get used to each other's scent, and being in close proximity to each other. Then let them up and observe how they react to each other again. If you see agressive behaviours, then package them up, and take another 15-20 minute car ride. For the stressful bonds I personally found the car ride to be invaluable, we'd go for 6-8 car rides in a session of 4 hours or so. Note: you'll definately want to make sure that the car is already cooled down via. air conditioning, etc. in warm weather conditions, and warmed in colder temps, so that they are not going from one temperature to another very quickly and repeatedly. To do so would be hard on their delicate systems.

You may witness humping! Even girl bunnies will hump... Frodo sure did. Humping is not entirely a bad thing. In fact, it means that the humper *wants* the other bunny. But what may turn it into a bad scene is how the other bunny reacts to the humping. You have to watch humping closely for those agressive behaviours. Also you don't want to let the humping go on for a long time, b/c the other bunny could become angry. So after a few seconds (I've read 20 sec. before) gently push the humper off, and don't allow her to mount the other bunny for a few minutes afterward... to allow the submissive bunny to relax again. If the humpee is getting agressive, then in the carrier and out for another car ride. If you experience head (aka backwards) humping I would immediately make the humper stop. This is b/c the humper could get seriously wounded by the other bunny, should the humpee bite her in a very delicate area. In my case Frodo would NOT stop the backwards mounting... so I decided to observe how Lego was reacting to it, rather than stop it immediately. Initially I made Frodo stop it everytime she'd start up, and we did this for 2 weeks... and she wasn't showing any signs of letting up (she wanted to assert her dominance). So out of frustration, and not knowing what else to do, I let her continue for a few seconds, and just Focused on Lego. If Lego had shown any danger signs than the backwards mounting would not have been allowed to continue. But Lego just allowed it... and then eventually she would find an exit and run away from Frodo. I didn't let the humping go on for more than 20 sec though. That way it wasn't too much for Lego. If you do experience this then you'll have to determine what is best for your bunnies. If the humpee reacts badly then you will not be able to allow the backwards humping, and if it continues, then you may just want to decide that the two bunnies involved were not meant to be friends, and allow them to go their seperate ways.

Other things that I found to help with my bond:

  • I changed the pellet they eat to APD Timmy Pellet... it's molasas-free and help to calm the bunny. Many pellets made using molasas keep the bunny on a sugar high, just as with a child that receives too much candy. Note: any changes to the type of pellet you feed must be made *slowly* over a period of a few weeks, as bunnies have a very delicate system. Any abrupt changes can result in a very sick bunny.)
  • I also reduced the amount of pellet that they received each day. Again, slow changes are the way to go. But now each of my girls get about 1/8 cup of pellet per day, and they weigh about 3.5 lbs.
  • Do not feed any treat/sugary foods. By avoiding the fruits etc. this also helps to ensure that they remain in a calmer mode. Veggies are a good way to go.
  • Do your bonding sessions every day. My bond (which was a third attempt for us) took place over an 8 week period... but we were bonding for a minimum of 5 hours per day, and often times on the weekends, we would be in the bonding pen all day. Eventually I even slept with them in the bonding pen (just be sure that you are a light sleeper). Do not let them fight with each other. Seperate them to their carriers before a fight ensues, and go for a car ride. This makes them forget for the moment that the other bunny did something they didn't like, and focuses them on learning to take support from each other in stressful events.
  • Try to remain calm.. your bunnies can pick up on your stress and it can cause agression between them.
  • Do not leave the bunnies unsupervised. Fights break out quickly and can be devastating. If you must leave the area, and no one is there to watch them for you, then take one bunny with you (i.e. have to use the bathroom) or stop the session if you must be away for longer

If during your bonding session, your two bunnies just ignore each other... this is a good thing. This means that they do not view each other as a threat. Eventually they will start to mingle with each other. If you see self grooming this is also a good thing. Eating is a social event for bunnies... so I always had a pile of hay available to my girls (in the litterpan) and they would sit and eat and enjoy each others' company. Note: some bunnies may react badly (territorial) in sight of food... you have to assess your bunnies to see what is the best method for them. If they start to groom each other this is great! You can also try to encourage grooming by putting a dab of peanut butter on the forhead of each bunny (didn't work for us), or I've also heard of some bunnies that groom if you scratch them in a certain way. Experiment with your bunnies to see what works for them. Each pairing is unique, and the above notes are just a guide to go by.... however your two bunnies will determine which direction to take.

Remember to try to take it slowly... it may seem that it's just the same ol' challenges each day... but eventually something changes for them (may take weeks, may take months) and then one day they just decide to behave better with each other. Try to look at things on a whole. Are they reacting better to each other this week, then they were last week? If so, then you've made progress. Progress can be as small as last week one bunny reacted badly to the other bunny sniffing in their delicate areas, and this week that same bunny tolerated it for a few seconds before the agression started. They have to become aquainted with each other and develop trust... and this is where you come in. You have to foster the good, and try to eliminate the bad. Talking to them in soft reasuring tones always seemed to work for us. Scolding a bunny holds no place in bunny bonding. You want to make it a *fun/good* thing as best as possible. Eventually you will start to gain trust in them. If you feel that they will not harm each other, and in your opinion they are 100% bonded, then it's time for you to start testing the waters. Go for a short (i.e. 15 min.) walk, leaving them together. If they are good when you get back (check them over for injury), then the next time you may want to leave for a bit longer. Work yourself up in time away. This allows yourself to gain confidence in them, and allows you to let go of your worry that you've developed over the past few weeks/months. Remember, there is no rush. Time is your biggest ally. The more you take things slowly the better off you and they will be.

Best of luck... hope some of the above may be useful!!